Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has forever been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its superb cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it enters a international community of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The accolade "stands as proof of its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant culinary scene," according to a representative from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this venerable city arrives as little surprise to its residents or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this cherished, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is now in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its soul: an immense devotion for food.
"'The day's menu, how should it be prepared' is a constant dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that is produced in your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of Nawabs – as it's widely known after its 18th and 19th Century affluent Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, refined, and elevated to sublime levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were epicenters of food experimentation, merging Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so soft that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, slow heat, with the container's cover tightly sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Almost on countless corners, there are small establishments and kiosks – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, large gatherings start assembling from the crack of dawn at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with pillowy soft buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert available in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique frothy texture.
On cold mornings, street vendors line up in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though note that their children are unwilling to learn the skill.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's immense food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will encourage more people globally to discover these stories and visit the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.
